Alteration of the driver of an energy-saving lamp. Driver for LEDs from an energy-saving lamp

Energy-saving lamps were actively positioned as a replacement for low-cost and unreliable incandescent lamps. The gradual decline in prices for "housekeepers" has led to the fact that they have received almost universal distribution.

The biggest disadvantage of LEDs is their high cost. It is not surprising that many are engaged in the conversion of energy-saving lamps into LED lamps, using the maximum available and inexpensive element base.

Theoretical background

LEDs operate at low voltage - about 2-3V. But most importantly, for normal operation not voltage stability is required, but current stabilityflowing through them. With a decrease in current, the brightness of the glow decreases, and excess leads to failure of the diode element. Semiconductor devices, which include LEDs, have a pronounced temperature dependence. When heated, the transition resistance decreases and the forward current increases.

A simple example: a stable voltage source generates 3V, with a current consumption of LED 20mA. With increasing temperature, the voltage on the LED remains unchanged, and the current rises up to unacceptable values.

To exclude the described situation, light sources on semiconductors are powered from a current stabilizer, it is also a driver. By analogy with fluorescent lamps, the driver is sometimes called the ballast for LEDs.

The presence of an input voltage of 220V together with the requirement of stabilization of the current leads to the need to create a complex power supply circuit for LED lamps.

Practical implementation of the idea

The simplest power supply for LEDs from a 220V network has the following form:

In the above figure, the resistor provides a drop in the excess voltage of the supply network, and a diode connected in parallel protects the LED element from voltage pulses of reverse polarity.

As can be seen from the figure, which can be verified by calculations, a quenching resistor of high power is required, which produces a lot of heat during operation.

Below is a diagram where a quenching capacitor is used instead of a resistor

Using a capacitor as ballast allows you to get rid of a powerful resistor and increase the efficiency of the circuit. Resistor R1 limits the current at the moment the circuit is turned on, R2 serves to quickly discharge the capacitor at the time of shutdown. R3 additionally limits the current through a group of LEDs.

Capacitor C1 serves to suppress excess voltage, and C2 smoothes power ripples.

The diode bridge is formed by four diodes of the type 1N4007, which can be removed from an unusable energy-saving lamp.

The calculation of the circuit was made for LEDs HL-654H245WC with a working current of 20mA. It is not excluded the use of similar elements with the same current.

As in the previous circuit, current stabilization is not provided here. To exclude the failure of LEDs, in the ballast circuit for LED lamps, the capacitor C1 and the resistance of resistor R3 are selected with a margin so that at the maximum input voltage and elevated temperature of the LEDs, the current through them does not exceed the permissible values. In normal mode, the current through the diodes is slightly less than nominal, but this practically does not affect the lamp brightness.

The disadvantage of such a scheme is that the use of more powerful LEDs will require an increase in the capacity of the quenching capacitor, which has large dimensions.

Similarly, the LED strip is powered from the board of the energy-saving lamp. It is important that the current of the LED strip matches the line of LEDs, i.e. 20mA.

We use the driver of an energy-saving lamp

A more reliable scheme when using a driver from an energy-saving lamp with minimal alterations. As an example, the figure shows the alteration of an energy-saving lamp with a power of 20W to power a powerful LED with a consumption current of 0.9A.

Alteration of the LED lamp to power the LEDs

Alteration of electronic ballast for LED lamps in this example is minimal. Most of the elements in the circuit are left from the driver of the old lamp. The L3 reactor has undergone changes and a rectifier bridge has been added. In the old circuit, a fluorescent lamp was switched on between the right terminal of the capacitor C10 and the cathode of the diode D5.

Now the capacitor and diode are connected directly, and the inductor is used as a transformer.

Alteration of the inductor consists in winding the secondary winding, from which the voltage will be removed to power the LED.

Without dismantling the inductor, it is necessary to wind 20 turns of enameled wire with a diameter of 0.4 mm on it. When turned on, the open circuit voltage of the newly completed winding should be about 9.5–9.7V. After connecting the bridge and the LED, the ammeter included in the power gap of the LED element should show about 830-850mA. A larger or smaller value requires correction of the number of turns of the transformer.

Diodes 1N4007 or similar, can be used from another faulty lamp. Diodes in housekeepers are used with a large margin of current and voltage, so they fail extremely rarely.

All the above schemes of LED drivers from an energy-saving lamp, although they provide low-voltage power, are galvanically connected to the AC network, therefore, when working on debugging, safety precautions must be observed.

The best and safest will be to use a separating transformer with the same primary and secondary windings. Having the same 220V output, the transformer will provide reliable galvanic isolation of the primary and secondary circuits.

The author of the article clearly showed how to disassemble and what can be obtained for reuse from an old energy-saving lamp. Thus, you can "return" part of the money paid for this lamp in due time. If you can save the case with the base, then it can be used for the manufacture of other lamps. Now it’s fashionable to make LED lamps from improvised products with your own hands.

Blown Energy Saving Lamp

Hello everybody,

today I want to show you how you can make the most of this money you invested in energy-saving lamps by extracting its useful parts after it burned out.

Purpose:

The goal of this Instructable is to show you the source of the free part you can use for the following projects and reduce energy losses.

You can get these parts from energy-saving lamps:

• Capacitors
• Diodes
• Transistors
• Coils

Tools required:

• flat screwdriver or saw / cutting tool
• desoldering pump
• soldering iron

Please read the following text for your own safety. I don’t want people to suffer so read and please be careful.

Readme file:

• Before starting, make sure that the glass body energy-saving lamp is broken! If it is broken, you need to seal it in a bag or some container in order to avoid getting hit by mercury inside the lamp.
• Be very careful not to damage the glass and the lamp housing! Do not try to open the lamp by turning the body glass or trying to tear or something like that.
• Do not try to open the lamp immediately after it burns out. It contains a high voltage capacitor, which should be the first to perform! Do not touch the circuit board if you do not know if the capacitor remains charged or you can get an electric shock!

• I think the best advice is to dispose of burned out or broken energy-saving lamps, to put them in a container (like a bucket with a lid or something like that) and keep the container in a safe place until you find a place to recycle them.
• Please do not dispose of energy-saving lamps in the bin! Energy-saving lamps are environmentally hazardous and can harm people!

Step 2: open the lamp housing

Dismantling an old energy-saving lamp

OK. Let's get started. Let's look at things first. Most cases are either glued or fastened together. (Mine has been trimmed together, like most other lamps I still have.)

You should be able to open a case by opening it with a screwdriver or by cutting it open with a saw.

In both cases, you must be careful not to damage the glass body! Be very careful.

Once you have opened the case, you just need to cut the wires leading in the glass case, so that you can put it in a safe place to get rid of this danger.

Step 3: remove the circuit board from the chassis

Sometimes the case cannot be saved.
Energy-saving lamp driver board ready for wiring.

Now you need to remove the board from the case.

Be very careful not to touch the circuit board with your bare hands! There is a high-voltage capacitor (a large electrolytic capacitor can be seen in the photo) on the board, which could still be! Try removing it from the circuit by cutting the legs and putting it in a safe place. (Make sure not to touch your feet!)

As soon as the high-voltage capacitor is removed from the board, nothing will remain of fear. Now you can proceed to unsolder all the useful elements.

Step 4: unsolder all the useful parts

Parts that have been unsoldered

Now take your soldering iron and desoldering pump and spare parts.

As you can see in the picture there are many useful details on the circuit board, so you should be able to collect a large number of useful elements for your project :)

So that is all. Hope I was able to provide you with some useful tips, and I hope you enjoyed my Instructable :)

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While scientists are taming the speed of light, I decided to tame unnecessary fluorescent lamps, converting them into LED. Compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) are a bit of a thing of the past, for obvious reasons: lower efficiency relative to LEDs, environmental insecurity (mercury), ultraviolet radiation, which is dangerous for human eyes, and also fragility.

Like many hams, a whole box of this "good" has accumulated. Less powerful can be used as spare parts, but those that are more powerful, starting from 20W, you can redo power supplies. After all, electronic ballast is a cheap voltage converter, that is, a simple and affordable switching power supply which can be used to power devices up to 30-40W (depending on CFL), and even more if you change the output choke and transistors. Those radio amateurs who live in remote places, or in certain situations, these "energy saving" will be useful. So, do not rush to throw them out after failure - and they do not work for long!

In my case, about a year ago (in the spring of 2014), having started experimenting with electronic ballast, in search of a housing for an alteration into an LED lamp, returning home from work in the evening, it dawned on me - seeing a can of cola on the sidewalk. After all, the aluminum case from under the 0.25L drink is just suitable as a radiator for heat dissipation of an LED strip. And also, it sits perfectly under the CFO “Vitoone” case with the E27 base, at 25 W. Yes, and in aesthetics it’s not bad!

Having made several redone LED lamps, I began to test them in different operating conditions. One of them works in a utility room in heat and frost (with ventilation holes), the other in a living room (without a hole in a plastic base). Another is connected to a three-meter LED strip. Almost a year has passed, and they still serve without fail! Well, and considering the fact that more and more articles appear on the topic of LEDs, I finally had to write about my time-tested ideas.

Discuss article LAMP LED UNIVERSAL

A fluorescent lamp is a rather complex mechanism. The design of energy-saving lamps contains many different small components, which together provide the lighting that such a device produces. The basis of the entire design of energy-saving devices is a glass tube, which is filled with mercury vapor and an inert gas.

Impulse block and its purpose

Electrodes, a cathode and anode are installed at both ends of this tube. After applying current to them, they begin to heat up. Having reached the required temperature, they release electrons that hit the molecules of mercury and it begins to emit ultraviolet light.

Ultraviolet is converted into a spectrum visible to the human eye thanks to the phosphor that is in the tube. Thus, the lamp lights up after some time. Typically, a lamp’s tanning rate depends on how long it has been generated. The longer the lamp has been operating, the longer the interval between switching on and full ignition will be.

To understand the purpose of each of the components of the UPS, it is necessary to analyze separately what functions they perform:

• R0 - works as a limiter and fuse for the power supply. It stabilizes and stops the excessive current supply current at the moment of switching on, which flows through the diodes of the rectifying device.
• VD1, VD2, VD3, VD4 - are used as bridge rectifiers.
• L0, C0 - filter the current supply and make it without drops.
• R1, C1, VD8 and VD2 are the starting circuit of the converters. The startup process is as follows. The charging source of capacitor C1 is the first resistor. After the capacitor gains such power that it is able to break through the VD2 dinistor, it independently opens and simultaneously opens the transistor, which causes self-oscillation in the circuit. Then a rectangular pulse is directed to the cathode of the VD8 diode and the resulting minus indicator closes the second dinistor.
• R2, C11, C8 - make the start-up process of converters easier.
• R7, R8 - Make transistor closure more efficient.
• R6, R5 - create boundaries for the current at the bases of each transistor.
• R4, R3 - operate as fuses in the event of a sharp increase in voltage in transistors.
• VD7 VD6 - protect each transistor BP from return current.
• TV1 is a reverse transformer for communication.
• L5 - ballast choke.
• C4, C6 - separation capacitors, where all the voltage and power are divided in half.
• TV2 is a transformer for creating pulses.
• VD14, VD15 - pulse diodes.
• C9, C10 - filtering capacitors.

Thanks to the correct arrangement and careful selection of the characteristics of all these components, we get the power supply unit of the power we need for further use.

Differences between the design of the lamp and the pulse unit

It is very similar in structure to a switching power supply, which is why making a pulse power supply can be very easy and fast. For alteration, it is necessary to install a jumper and additionally install a transformer generating pulses and which is equipped with a rectifier.

To facilitate the UPS, the glass fluorescent lamp and some components of the structure, which were replaced by a special connector, were removed. You may have noticed that for a change you need to perform just a few simple operations, and that will be enough.

Board with energy saving lamp

The issued power indicator is limited by the size of the transformer used, the maximum possible throughput indicator of the main transistors and the dimensions of the cooling system. To increase a little power, it is enough to wind another winding on the inductor.

Pulse transformer

The main key characteristic of a switching power supply is the ability to adapt to the performance of the transformer used in the design. And the fact that the reverse current does not need to pass through the transformer, which we ourselves made, greatly facilitates the calculation of the rated power of the transformer.

Thus, most of the calculation errors become insignificant due to the use of such a scheme.

We calculate the capacity of the required voltage

To save, use capacitors with a small capacity indicator. It is from them that the ripple rate of the incoming voltage will depend. To reduce ripple, it is necessary to increase the volume of capacitors is also done to increase ripple only in the reverse order.

To reduce the size and improve compactness, it is possible to use capacitors on electrolytes. For example, you can use such capacitors that are mounted in photographic equipment. They have a capacity of 100µF x 350V.

To provide a power supply with an indicator of twenty watts, it is enough to use the standard circuit from energy-saving lamps and not at all winding additional windings on transformers. In the case when the throttle has free space and can additionally fit the turns, you can add them.

Thus, two to three dozen turns of the winding should be added so that it is possible to recharge small devices or use the UPS as an amplifier for equipment.

20 watt power supply circuit

If you need a more efficient increase in power rating, you can use the simplest copper wire coated with varnish. It is specially designed for winding. Make sure that the insulation on the standard winding of the inductor is of sufficient quality, since this part will be under the value of the incoming current. You should also protect it from secondary turns with paper insulation.

The current model of power supply is 20 watts.

For insulation, we use special cardboard with a thickness of 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm. In the first case two words are needed, in the second one is enough. The cross-section of the winding wire is used from the maximum large, the number of turns will be selected by the sample method. Usually it is not enough turns.

Having done all the necessary actions, you get a power supply of 20 watts and a transformer operating temperature of sixty degrees, a forty-two transistor. It’s not possible to make more power, since the dimensions of the inductor are limited and it will not work to make more windings.

Reducing the transverse diameter of the wire used will certainly increase the number of turns, but this will affect the power only in minus.

In order to be able to raise the power supply to hundreds of watts, you must additionally screw up the pulse transformer and expand the capacity of the filter capacitor to 100 farads.

100 watts PSU circuit

To lighten the load and reduce the temperature of the transistors, radiators should be added to them for cooling. With this design, the efficiency will be in the region of ninety percent.

Transistor 13003 should be connected

A transistor 13003, which is able to be fixed with the help of a shaped spring, should be connected to the electronic ballast of the BP. They are advantageous in that there is no need to install a gasket with them due to the lack of metal pads. Of course, their heat transfer is much worse.

It is best to fasten with M2.5 screws, with pre-installed insulation. It is also possible to use thermal grease that does not transmit mains voltage.

Make sure that the transistors are securely insulated, as current flows through them and, with poor insulation, a short circuit may occur.

Connection to a network of 220 volts

Connection is made using an incandescent lamp. It will serve as a protective mechanism and is connected in front of the power supply.

REPAIR AND REMOVAL OF ENERGY-SAVING LAMPS

ENERGY-SAVING LAMP FROM 12V

Winded by eye and memory, interpreting the size of the cores, according to the continuous winding scheme. The first one wound the collector winding of 10 turns with a 0.4mm wire, the second base 6 windings with a 0.2mm wire, laid an insulation layer, I lapped the load winding with a 0.1 wire, about 330-340 turns were obtained. I connected the lamp from the 7w scanner to the load, the device immediately worked, as evidenced by the light emanating from the lamp. Nearby lay a 13-watt energy-saving lamp with a burned-out spiral, I decided to try to overcome this brainchild by such a load, I was pleasantly surprised that at a current of half an ampere at a voltage of 12 volts the lamp shines quite brightly.

It also works on two lithium-ion batteries, although it consumes 150 mA more. In one, I soldered it with a hinged installation (4 parts) and all this miraculously housed in the original 220-ballast housing.

The transistor is not particularly heated, after five minutes of operation you can hold your finger on it. Now this design will go straight to the cottage, where, as usual, there is always a power outage, you can drink tea or lay out the bed in daylight.

What can you do if your compact fluorescent lamp burns out

Although the economy lamp, depending on the manufacturer, there is a guarantee, and even up to 3 years. But consumers may be faced with the fact that the light bulb has blown out, but you have not saved the packaging, purchase receipt, the store has moved to another place, that is, for some reason beyond your control, you cannot exchange a broken thing. We decided to offer you to use the original solution for the use of burned-out economy lamps that we found on the vast expanses of a huge Internet resource and offer it to you.

Remember, you endanger life by falling under 220V voltage!

The easiest way is to throw it in the trash, but you can make it ... another, and if there are several lamps that have burned down, then you can do it .... by repair.
If you at least once held a soldering iron in your hands, then this article is for you.
You can make your own electronic ballast for fluorescent lamps and turn on the lamp up to 30 watts, without starter and inductor, using a small scarf removed from our economy lamp. At the same time, it will light up instantly, with a decrease in voltage it will not ‘Blink’.

This lamp burns out in two ways:
1) the electronic circuit is on

2) the glow plug burns out

First, find out what happened. We disassemble the lamp (very often assembled on latches, cheaper versions are glued).

Turn off the flask, bite off the power wires:

We call the flames (to decide whether to throw the flask or not)

I was unlucky, both filaments burned out (for the first time in my considerable practice, usually one, but not one when the circuit burns down). In general, if at least one burned out flask is thrown away, if not, then it is working, and the circuit burned out.
We debug the working flask for storage (until the next burned-out housekeeper) and then we hook the flask to the working scheme. So, we make 1 out of several, and maybe more (as you are lucky).
And here is an option for making a fluorescent lamp. You can connect, like a 6 Watt lamp from a "Chinese" lamp (for example, I wrapped it with plastic from a green bottle, and hidden the circuit in a burned charger, from my mobile phone and got a cool backlight for the aquarium) or a 30 Watt daylight lamp:

Can electronic ballast be repaired?

Today, fluorescent lamps with electronic ballast can be found everywhere. Table lamps with rectangular shades and a two-knee holder are very popular. All electrical goods stores already sell lamps that are screwed into conventional round-shaped lampholders instead of classic incandescent lamps. In particular, the St. Petersburg metro recently completely got rid of incandescent lamps, replacing them with fluorescent ones. The advantage of such lamps is obvious - a long service life, low energy consumption with high light output (suffice it to say that an 11-watt fluorescent lamp replaces a 75-watt incandescent lamp), soft light with a spectrum close to natural sunlight.
The leading manufacturers of fluorescent lamps are Philips, Osram and several others. Unfortunately, in the domestic market there are enough Chinese lamps of low quality that come out of standing much more often than their company counterparts. A detailed story about electronic ballasts, operating principles, advantages, circuitry solutions can be found in the book "Power Electronics for Professionals and Amateurs." Section of the book is called "Ballast, which you can’t drown. New methods of controlling fluorescent lighting lamps." Therefore, readers who need to get initial
information about electronic ballasts can refer to the book, but here we consider a rather particular issue of repair of lamps that have come out of a standing state.
The history of the appearance of this article is related to the acquisition by an author of a lamp from an unknown company (photo 1). This lamp worked flawlessly in the chandelier for several months, but after this time it simply stopped lighting. There was nothing left to do but disassemble the lamp by gently (from the sides) prying the case with a thin screwdriver (it consists of two halves fastened together by three tabs-latches).

The disassembled lamp is shown in photo 2. It consists of a round base, a control circuit (actually electronic ballast) and a plastic circle, in which a tube is glued that gives light. When disassembling the lamp, care must be taken to, firstly, not to break the balloon and not to hurt your hands, eyes and other parts of the body, and secondly, so as not to damage the electronic circuit (do not tear the "tracks") and the body (plastic) .

Studies conducted with a multimeter showed that one spiral burned out in a lamp bulb. In photo 3, which was obtained after opening the balloon, it is seen that the spiral burned out, obscuring the phosphor in the vicinity. It has been suggested that nothing happened to the electronic ballast (this was later confirmed). With a high degree of certainty, it can be argued that the filament of the lamp is the weakest point, and in the vast majority of out of standing lamps, the burnout will be observed more likely than the burnout of the electronic part of the circuit.
By the way, about the electronic circuit of electronic ballast. It is shown in photo 4. The circuit is redrawn from the printed circuit board. In addition, it does not show some elements that do not affect the basics of the ballast, and also does not provide ratings. The ballast of the lamp is a two-stroke half-bridge type oscillator with a saturable transformer. Such an oscillator is well described in books and does not require additional explanations. At the input, a diode bridge VD1-VD4 with a filter C1, C2, L1 is installed. The capacitor C1 prevents the penetration of high-frequency interference into the mains, the capacitor C2 serves as a filter of mains ripples, the inductor L1 limits the starting current and filters the RF interference. Inductor L2 and capacitor C3 are elements of a resonant circuit in which the voltage “ignites” the lamp. Capacitor C4 - starting. It is clear that when one of the strands breaks, the lamp will no longer light up.

A very important element of the circuit is the fuse F1. If something happens in the electronic ballast circuit (for example, half-bridge transistors "burn out" by creating a "through" current, or a capacitor C1, C2 breaks, or a diode bridge breaks), the fuse will protect the network from short circuit and possible fire. In photo 5, this fuse is shown.

It is a cone without a classic holder with long leads, one of which is soldered to the base and the other to the ballast circuit board. So if the fuse is blown, most likely something happened in the ballast circuit, and you need to check its elements. And if not, the ballast is probably intact.
The most interesting thing is that such an energy-saving lamp can be repaired, and it will cost less than buying a new lamp. It will look, of course, not as beautiful as an industrial one, but pretty well (if everything is done carefully). So, you need to purchase a replaceable element for a table lamp, for example, such as shown in photo 6. The manufacturer of this lamp is the Italian company Osram, the lamp power is 11 W, which corresponds to 75 W of an incandescent lamp.

On the lamp box there is interesting information about the power consumption of other lamps, as well as reliability. This 9 W lamp replaces a 60-Watt incandescent lamp, 9 W replaces a 40-Watt lamp, and 5 W replaces a 25-Watt lamp. The guaranteed MTBF is 10,000 hours, which corresponds to 10 incandescent lamps. This is approximately 13 months of continuous operation. The base of the dump should contain four leads, that is, two spirals (photo 7). In this lamp, the right two leads belong to one spiral, the left two to another spiral. If the location of the spirals is not obvious, you can always find the desired conclusions with a multimeter - the spirals have a low resistance of the order of several ohms.

The lamp leads must be carefully, avoiding overheating, to irradiate solder.

Now we will prepare the base to which we will mount the lamp. A circle similar to the existing one, filled with white mass (photo 8), you need to make a new one and prepare the file with a file, to which the lamp will be glued (photo 9). It is strongly not recommended to break a lamp bulb.

Further it is better to check how the lamp lights up. We solder the lamp leads to the ballast (photo 11) and turn on the ballast in the network. For running in, it is worth training it, turning it on and off several times and keeping it on for several hours. The lamp shines quite bright light, and at the same time heats up, therefore it is better to put it on a board and cover it with a fireproof sheet. When the training is carried out, we disassemble this design and begin the installation of the lamp.

We take a tube of Moment superglue and apply a few drops to the mating surfaces. Then we insert the findings into the holes and press the parts tightly together, keeping for half an hour in this form. Glue reliably "grabs" the details (photo 10). It is better to use this glue, or dichloroethane, since for reliable fastening the plastic in the mating place should melt a little.

It remains to assemble the lamp. We solder the ballast into the base, not forgetting the fuse. In advance (before soldering), you need to solder the four wires with which the lamp will be connected to the ballast. Any wire will do, well, it’s better if it is a MGTF type wire in a PTFE heat-resistant insulation (photo 12). The lamp is also assembled simply - it is enough to lay the wires inside the base, or twist them with a flagellum, and then snap the clips. For electrical safety reasons, it is better to seal the openings from the past cylinder with circles cut out of the packaging from dairy products.

The repaired lamp is ready (photo 13). It can be screwed into the cartridge.
In conclusion, I note that you can quite fantasize about electronic ballasts. For example, insert a lamp into a beautiful lamp and hang it from the ceiling using parts from a burned-out lamp.