Solar battery do-items from LEDs. Homemade solar battery

But it was already a ready-made solution.

Now I will tell about my experience LED solar battery do it yourself.

Please note that the article is indicated by symbols ƒ↓ (experience failed). Before you start, I love to watch similar crafts and evaluate what happened. Here is the topic of one forum, where this question surfaced earlier, but to realize and make an expulsive review of the effectiveness of the LEDs, no one took.

Personally, I, the idea came completely by chance, also by chance how I got on someone else's a free listener. There were told pro lEDsand the possibility of their use as photodiodes. That is, in other words, LEDs too transform light into electricity!

First you need to determine which LEDs are better to use. But now it's not a season and test under the right sunny rays will not work, and not constant this sun. What to do? Score to forget before summer? This is not an approach of brains and all self-delicacies))

A halogen lamp bought in the article about.

The halogenka is not chosen by chance, but due to the proximity to the solar spectrum of radiation and high power.

I decided to collect and somewhere where to unscrew all lEDswho were in our Mosinocyn Laboratory.

For maximum comparison accuracy all LEDs were driven perpendicular to the center of the lamp. But before looking into the table, select, based on personal knowledge and experience, - what LED gives more voltage? White, red, can infrared?

5 mm	Volt
Green opaque LED	1,51
Green transparent LED	1,48
Ultraviolet LED	0,11
Infrared LED	0,93
Red transparent LED	1,37
Orange opaque LED	1,52
Red translucent LED	0,52
White LED	0,32
3 mm
green opaque LED	1,52
green opaque with a reflector !!!	1,57
10 mm
Red opaque LED	1,16

Who made out green, So - cook!

Therefore, choose all green indicator diodes.

Next I dished 9 lEDs sequence and further 9 parallelTo compare efficiency at 2 types of connection. Stopped at 3 mm, because they give the same voltage as svetiki 5 mm (Oh and infuriates me).

Results came out as follows:

With a consistent connection of only 1.25 V

parallel 1,56 V. I expected quite different. The strength of the current failed to measure (because of my multimeter). But I already know that she is insignificantly small. Interestingly, with a sequential connection, the voltage only decreased. Maybe this is due to the fact that the LEDs partially consume the energy that they themselves are converted from light!?

In general, the words of Professor (from 1 f :))) confirmed and nothing came out. But to make sure that for sure, I connected the LEDs to the electronic thermometer, which is powered by 1 semi-gun tablet. AND…. drumroll …

Nothing.(

Epic Fail!

Output: The area P - n of the transition from LEDs is very small (compared to the solar battery). For example, a strip is several centimeters.

We continue our topic dedicated to the construction of a home solar power plant. FROM general information Oh, on the principles of calculating solar panels, as well as on autonomous power supply systems, you can read by reading our previous articles. Today we will tell about the peculiarities of the independent manufacture of solar panels, about the sequence of connecting electrical transducers and the protective devices that must be included in the solar power plant.

Production of photoelectric modules

Standard photoelectric module (panel) consists of three main elements.

1. Panel housing.
2. Frame.
3. Photoelectric cells.

The easiest in design by the element of the solar module is its housing. As a rule, its front side is an ordinary glass sheet, the sizes of which correspond to the number of solar cells.

Adoronkin. User forumhouse.

The glass used the usual window - 3 mm (inexpensive). He conducted a test: the performance of the glass module worsens slightly, so I do not see much sense to take the tempered or enlightened glass.

Window glass is often used in the manufacture of a protective housing for solar panels. If you doubt the strength of this material, you can use glass tempered or ordinary, but thicker (5 ... 6 mm). In this case, it is possible not to doubt that the photoelectric elements will be reliably protected from the manifestations of the devastating natural elements (from hail, for example).

The back side of the body can be made of moisture-proof material, which will protect it from dust and moisture to the solar cells. It can be a metal tin, hermetically attached to the frame with rivets and silicone or, again, ordinary glass.

At the same time, the presence of the rear wall on the housing of the homemade solar panel some craftsmen are not welcomed at all.

Adoronkin.

The rear side of the battery is open (for better cooling), but is coated with acrylic varnish mixed with transparent sealant.

Given that when the panels are heated, their power drops significantly, such a solution looks justified. After all, it ensures efficient cooling of semiconductor elements and at the same time - high-quality sealing of solar cells. All together is guaranteed to extend the life of solar panels.

Frame

Frames for homemade solar panels are most often made from standard aluminum corners. It is better to use coated aluminum - anodized or painted. If there is a temptation to make a frame from a tree or plastic, be prepared for the fact that in a couple of years the product can refuse or fall apart under the action of climatic factors (the exception is the window plastic).

Bob691774. User forumhouse.

I buy where windows are produced. Price - 80 rubles. for meter. The profile is fully ready for work, just soothed 45 ° and under heating, glue corners.

Consider the easiest option of the panel: the panel with an aluminum frame.

The details of the aluminum frame are easily sealed with bolts or screws.

Subsequently, it is possible to glue a glass case without much effort to glue. All that is needed is the usual silicone sealant.

Adoronkin.

I took the silicone sealant - universal. Such a 1st tube. The sealant is better to take transparent. Chemical safety sealant in relation to photoelectric elements confirmed the annual battery operation.

As a result, a shallow box with a glass bottom, which will be subsequently glued with photoelectric elements will be applied.

Determining the size of the housing and frame, should consider the need for a gap between adjacent photovoltaic cells, which is equal to 2 ... 5 mm.

Soldering of solar cells

The most responsible stage of the assembly of solar modules is the soldering of photoelectric elements. Solar cells are made of very fragile material, therefore, they require the appropriate. Those people who have already had the case with them will continue when buying solar cells, ordered cells with some margin in quantity (10 - 15%). For example, for the manufacture of a panel designed for 36 elements, they purchase 39 - 42 cells.

Thin shuttering solar tanks, thicker shutters (with which the neighboring bands of the panel are combined with each other) and solar cells are better acquired by the same seller. It saves time to search for suitable elements and gives certain guarantees of their compatibility.

The soldering of items in the case of their serial connection is made according to the following scheme.

Negative (facial) contact of the solar element solder to a positive (rear) contact of the next cell, etc.

This is what the finished panel looks like.

The following tools and materials will be needed for work:

• Powerful soldering iron 40-60 W (no less).
• Flux (flux marker) - must be neutral (otherwise the soldered contacts are quickly oxidized).
• Saves of different widths.
• Rubber gloves - so as not to smear the solar cells (especially their front part).

We will need tin. This is the case if the shinka will be bad for contacts. The cells with which the work is underway are located on a solid and smooth surface. It may be a plank or glass. In order for the cells do not slide along the working surface of the table, they can be fixed with pieces of electrical tapes, combined around the perimeter of the element. To glue the cell on the cell itself (especially on its facial part) should not be. The free end of the tank should be attached to the table with the help of two-way tape.

The soldering of the elements and the assembly of the panels are made in the following order: the first thing the contact groove plate is labeled throughout the entire length. Then the flat shine is placed in the groove and solder to the contact plate throughout its width (on the negative pole of the element).

Or at three points (as a rule - on a positive pole of the element).

The number of shutting points depends on the design of the element.

Alternately contacts are soldered to all solar cells. Additional solder is used only in cases where the shredder is not safely soldered to the plate from the first time.

First of all, the contacts are soldered to the facial (negative) side of each cell, which will fall on the glass case of the panel.

The savage of the required size is prepared in advance. Its length must correspond to the width of 2 adjacent plates.

Plates with soldered contacts are laid out on the glass case with the front panel. After that, they can be soldered to each other according to the polarity ("-" of each cell rolls to the "+" adjacent cell and so on).

In order for the elements to be more convenient to place the panel on the glass case, its surface can be preloaded.

Sliderrr. User forumhouse.

On the glass caused a black felt-tip pen of the location of the cells. Located cells and recorded them with heads, nuts and bolts.

Nuts, keys and other metal items in this case were used as a cargo. You can also fix the cells using a transparent silicone that is applied to the glass at the corners of each element.

Combining among themselves neighboring series of photovoltaic elements, additional solder should be used. This will increase the reliability of the soldering in the locations of the conductors of various widths.

When all cells are soldered with each other, and the conductors are displayed out through the aluminum frame of the panel, you can start the pouring of solar cells.

For this, the seams between adjacent elements are poured with silicone sealant.

Sliderrr.

Silicone poured the gaps between the panels (slimped a little and cut a syringe snot to ensure the aesthetics of the seam and good contact silicone with glass). When dried, missed the perimeter each panel again. After the height of the sealant, twice the cells coated with a yacht varnish. In the future, I will try the lacquer isolation.

User Mirosh.instead of varnish, uses white silicone to fill the cells, which makes a thin layer on the surface with a spatula. The result is quite satisfactory.

Before the final assembly, each element is desirable to test for the item generated power. This can be done using a multimeter. If there are significant differences between current and voltage, which generates each individual cell, no, then it can be safely included them in the photoelectric module.

Installing Schottky diodes

In the construction of solar panels, it is often used by elements that we have not previously mentioned. These are shunting Schottky diodes.

They are resorted to their installation for two reasons.

First, the shunting diodes put so that in the dark or cloudy weather, the solar panels have not discharged the battery included in the solar power plant.

Alex MAP User forumhouse.

In the case of direct connection of solar panels to the battery at night, the voltage is planted on the panels, and they heat. Therefore, the scheme of a primitive solar controller, developed another 10 years ago, was introduced by a Schottky diode (protection against the night discharge of AKB).

If a modern controller is connected to the solar panels, there is no particular need for protection against night discharge. Operable controller, without help additional devices, in time will turn off the SB battery.

Secondly, if the solar module is closed by a shadow from a nearby building (or another massive subject), the power of this element is reduced. The effects of power reduction are as follows: with respect to the other panels connected to the shaded element, the shaded element from the current source turns into a resistive load. The impedance of the shaded module increases greatly, and its temperature increases significantly.

A significant reduction in power is the most innocuous of what partial shading can lead to a consistently connected solar battery. After all, ultimately the shaded module will overheat and fail. This phenomenon got the name "The Effect of Hot Spot".

In order to avoid this effect, parallel to each successively connected module (or a sequential row of solar cells) is installed Schottky diode. The diode allows you to put electricity into the circuit of the shaded panel. In this case, the generated voltage will decrease, but high current drawdown will be avoided.

Alex MAP

A high current from the remaining panels of the chain, which are lit, will not interrupt, but will go to bypass the shaded parts of the panels through diodes. The final stress will become a little less, but it does not matter to the controller. If there were no diodes in the panels, then at the slightest shading, at least a piece of 1 panel, the entire chain would completely cease to give a current.

In other words, power loss will be commensurate with shading area.

Diodes can be installed in parallel to the entire module, and it is possible in parallel with its individual rows.

Here is a diagram in which each range of cells installed in one module has its own diode. In practice, the module is most often divided into 2 equal parts.

Houzer User forumhouse.

Usually an average point is displayed for a four-row panel, that is, cells are spoiled in half. Diodes put in the terminal box.

In any case, all solar panel modules should be positioned so that the light falls on them evenly. Then it is not necessary to solve the problem of shunting individual modules or even cells.

Terminal boxes for convenience are located on the back of the solar panels.

If several sequentially connected panel groups connect to the controller in parallel, then in this case each sequential chain is turned on into a total chain through the unleashing diode. This allows you to avoid losses in the mismatch of individual consecutive chains and additionally protect the battery from discharge at night (if, suddenly, the controller fails).

Diodes are selected by two main parameters: at the maximum strength of the current, which will pass in the direct direction (direct current), and on the reverse voltage. The maximum output voltage (UEB.Max.) Should not lead to a diode breakdown. At the same time, the operating characteristics of the diode must slightly exceed the panel rating (approximately 1.3 - 1.5 times).

But there is one trick here.

MAX94. User forumhouse.

Normal Schottky on large voltages does not happen. It's just pillars with a drop of direct current. So it is better to take the usual with urev. Max ≈ 30 ... 100B.

Installing panels

How to fix the panels and where to install them? Answers to these questions depend on the design of the Sat and on the possibilities of their owner. The only thing that everyone should take care without exception is to observe the angle of inclination. For each region, this angle will be your own, and it depends directly from the latitude of the terrain.

In the middle winter, the angle of inclination should be 10 ° ... 15 ° above the optimal value, in the summer - to the same value below. You can see in the Forumhouse section.

Section of conductors

In accordance with the postulates of electrical engineering, too small section of the conductor can lead to its overheating and even to ignition. Too big - it is not bad, but will lead to unreasonably overestimated rise in prices autonomous System. Therefore, the task of its creator is to find the Golden Middle.

Let's start with the fact that the thick conductors should be installed in the circuit connecting the battery with the inverter (by the way, the shorter this area will be, the better). It is here that currents of great strength flow.

Conductors connecting panels with inverter, as well as connecting panels with each other, can be selected with a small cross section. In these areas of the chain, there may be a relatively high voltage, but there will always be a low current.

HeliosHouse. User forumhouse.

16 mm² is not necessary and 10 mm² is not needed. 4 - more than enough. The "thick" wire will only be needed in the inverter circuit, the cross section must be selected according to the current power.

"Fat" and "thin" - the concepts are tensile, so we will not leave standards.

Considering that aluminum conductors in household power supply systems today to use is prohibited, tabular data applies to copper conductive veins with polyvinyl chloride or rubber insulation.

Also, choosing conductors, you should pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturers of inverters, controllers and other devices involved in the system.

Protective automata

In the chain of the solar power plant, as in the circuit of any other powerful source of electricity, it is necessary to put protection against short circuits. First of all, automata or fusible inserts must protect power cables that come from batteries to the inverter.

Leo2. User forumhouse.

If it closes that in the inverter, it is not far to the fire. One of the requirements for battery systems is the presence of a DC machine or melting insert at least on one of the wires and as close as possible to the battery terminals.

In addition, the protection is placed in the battery and controller chain. It is also not necessary to neglect the protection of individual groups of consumers (consumers direct current, household appliances etc.). But this is a rule of constructing any power supply system.

The machine, which is installed between the battery and the controller, should have a large reserve for a test current. In other words, protection should not work randomly (with an increase in the load). Cause: If the input of the controller is served voltage (from Sat), then at this moment you cannot turn off the battery. This can lead to the failure of the device.

Connection order

The assembly of the electrical circuit is happening in the following order:

1. Connect the controller to the battery.
2. Connecting to the solar panel controller.
3. Connecting to the controller of a DC consumers group.
4. Connect the inverter to battery batteries.
5. Connecting the load to the output of the inverter.

A similar sequence of connection will help protect the controller and the inverter from damage.

You can learn from the participants of our portal by visiting the appropriate topic. Those who are seriously interested in, we recommend visiting another useful section on the exchange of experience in this area. In conclusion, we bring to your attention a video that will tell about how the solar panels are mounted and connected and connected.

Independent manufacture of any technical device From the primary means is always associated with several factors. On the one hand, a tangible economy of finance, on the other, solid time and labor costs. In addition, it is possible that the assembled product will work somewhat not as expected, and give out completely different parameters. Solar panels from diodes are no exception.

It is possible to assemble such a battery, but for this you will need, firstly, diodes in a fairly large quantity, secondly, the fee for the substrate, thirdly, soldering equipment and the skills of working with it. And, of course, the reserve of time, since the placement and soldering of the desired number of diodes is a process of fairly long.

How does a phototokock turn out

Inside the diode contains a semiconductor crystal. Accordingly, under the action of sunlight in the P-N-zone region, the electrons come into motion and form a directional flow. He is a photoc. Therefore, an ordinary diode can be used as an element of the solar battery.

Another thing is that the voltage produced by such a diode is very small (for diodes of the KD type it is about 0.5 V), the current of the current is not more than 7 mA. For comparison, the consumption current of the white LED reaches 20 mA.

From old diodes

The first stage of the manufacture of a diode battery with their own hands is the opening of the inner crystal so that the rays of the sun fall on it. To do this, the upper part of the diode is neatly cut and removed, and the lower, with a crystal, heated above the gas stove turned on by about 20 seconds.

It is necessary in order to melt the solder, holding the crystal, and the crystal is easily removed using a tweezers. The obtained crystals are soldered to the circuit board (you can use any suitable substrate).

The number of crystals and their location scheme depend on the parameters required as a result. For example, to obtain at the output of 2-4 V, you can collect 5 blocks of 4-5 sequentially soldered crystals. Broadcasting blocks are switched in parallel. This method allows to obtain the desired voltage at a current sufficient to power a small LED device. If you use only a parallel connection, then with the increased voltage the total current will be too small.

From LEDs

Modern LEDs are also suitable for the manufacture of a mini-solar battery. The principle of operation is actually similar to conventional diodes, the difference only in the presence of a special plastic case. This body acts as a kind of lens and focuses the rays of the sun on a conductive crystal.

The produced voltage due to this will be higher than that of conventional diodes. So, for a red-transparent LED, it is approximately 1.3 V, for infrared - 0.9 V, for green - 1.5 V. As for the current generated current, its value will be insignificant. As a rule, about 0.5 mA can be obtained from the battery per 100 diodes.

You can place LEDs as on the textolite (or similar) substrate, and on a simple dense cardboard. The principles of constructing a scheme and calculation of the required parameters are the same as when working with conventional diodes.

Are there any benefits?

When it comes to LEDs, you should not forget about such a phenomenon as current consumption by diodes themselves and their spontaneous glow. In other words, at a time when part of the LED generates electricity, the rest will consume it. As a result, the voltage of the scheme increases far from proportion to the number of elements involved, and at a certain point "inverse losses" become too significant.

In addition, the self-made battery from diodes can work normally can only in clear sunny weather. In the conditions of clouds, it seeks to zero.

Currently on sale appeared great amount Solar panels and modules. The most common can be attributed modules made on the basis of polycrystalline and monocrystalline silicon, which are silicon plates mounted on a platform from a foil glass platter, on the back of which are formed contact sites With polarity marking. To protect against atmospheric precipitation and exposure, they are covered with special protective layer From transparent plastic, which, in turn, has a very high degree of optical transparency. Monocrystalline silicon panels have a good efficiency (efficiency) 11-13%, their service life is up to 25 years. However, they significantly reduce the power during darkening and cloudiness, the battery made of polycrystalline silicon has a smaller efficiency, about 7-9%, and the durability of about 10 years, however, in contrast to monocrystalline silicon batteries, slightly reduce the power during darkening and clouds.

For the manufacture of homemade solar battery we use the inner photo effect p-N Transitiona semiconductor device (diode, transistor). Its work is based on direct current dependence on the degree of illumination of the P-N transition. It turns out that the better the illumination of the semiconductor crystal, the more intense electrons and holes penetrate through the P-N transition. And this dependence makes it possible to convert light radiation into an electric current. At the same time, the semiconductor itself becomes the source of the electric current. The strength of the current and the electric driving force (EMF) in such a semiconductor depends on several factors, namely: the material from which the semiconductor (silicon, germanium, etc.) is performed; Square p-N surfaces transition; And of course, the degree of illumination. However, the current of the current in one phototodeod is negligible, and it is not able to provide power to small equipment, so you need to collect modules of dozens of such semiconductor devices, then there will be the desired effect. The greatest advantage of such a source is that the elements included in the battery are not afraid of short circuit. Each of them is designed to issue a certain amount of current force at some electrical voltage.

As a photocell, you can use diodes, transistors, and other semiconductors, which will be able to open the P-N transition, and it will be sufficient area. Let's stop on diodes. In my design, I applied silicon diodes KD202, appearance, drawing and overall dimensions:

This type of diode has a plane structural design. In such a type of diode on a semiconductor plate, a small droplet of a substance that can be either a donor or acceptor. In the location of this droplet actually, the P-N transition is formed. I hope that the same diodes still remained and will be released in the old reserves of radio amateurs that they read this article. In the absence of the specified diode type, it is possible to use D226, D237.

In order to turn a diode into a photocurrent source, it is necessary to carefully reach the semiconductor crystal so that the transition can intensively fall into the P-N. For this purpose, let's do the following ...

Taking a diode in hand, to fulfill the safety regulations before future actions with him, it must be consolidated in the locksmith vice for the flange. After that, pliers or scissors for metal, and in the extreme case a chisel, it is necessary to cut off the separation of the diode. When performing this procedure, the balance of output output in the form of a tubule is preferably accurately straightening, which will subsequently give the opportunity to free the copper wire, which is soldered to the P-N transition, and is actually a positive contact.

At the next stage, you should remove the flange from the diode. For this, as shown, it is necessary to apply to the weld on the diode, which is indicated in the figure, the sharp item (knife, screwdriver, etc.), and at the same time it slowly hits the back side of such an item and phasately turning the diode in the vice, it is necessary to remove Protective flange. When performing this procedure, it is necessary to be extremely attentive and ensured that the tip of the acute item does not take place very deeply inside the weld between the diode and the flange has not yet been removed. This condition should be performed necessarily, to avoid damage to the crystal. Now that the welding connection is disclosed, you can remove the flange. If all actions are done correctly, the result of the work performed should look like this:

These actions are described for one diode, for all others that will be an element battery base, actions are similar. I would like to note that I am trying to shoot a flange and thereby open a semiconductor crystal for this technique, one diode will go on average for about a minute, so everything is very simple, you just need to practice a little bit and pick up a comfortable snap.

Solar battery scheme:

As can be seen from the figure, the battery consists of five M1-M5 modules for 11 diodes in each. For maximum increasing output current, which is given to the external circuit, the diodes used the same series must be combined, that is, the battery is assembled on the basis of groups that are connected in turn in series, and are made up of the same connected parallel elements. With this inclusion circuit, the voltage generated by diodes is more evenly distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe solar battery. Due to this, a minor partial darkening of the part of the diodes will not bring a large reduction in voltage and current strength in the homemade solar panel. Of course, the number of modules can be different, it works here "the more - the better", it is only very important that they are connected in exactly the way as indicated in the scheme. The described home-made solar battery based on 55 semiconductor diodes of KD202, consisting of five modules of 11 parallel to the connected diodes in each, on the Sun generates a voltage to 5 V at a stream of about 2.5 mA. To power a small-sized radio, eptronic clocks and other low-power equipment will be enough. It should also be remembered that the idling stress (without load) arising in a semiconductor may change slightly when the transition from one element to another, even if they are one series, and can reach the values \u200b\u200bup to 0.5 V. This value is practically independent from p-N sizes Transition. But the strength of the current in semiconductors, which constitute the solar panel depends on the intensity of the crystal lighting, as well as the size of the active working area in the semiconductor used.

Now I would like to tell about the installation of the elements that make up the solar battery. Prepared diodes need to be installed on a glass plate.

An example of an installation, which shows the location as an example of four diodes:

I am sure you will not be difficult to arrange such a number of diodes that they will want to apply in their structures of solar batteries. With the help of this picture, I showed the basic principle of the right editing. Between themselves, positive conclusions that depart from the crystals of diodes must be combined with copper wire. When installing these wires from soldering, it is better to refuse, since the high temperature can damage the P-N transition. The described diodes of this series initially include current-gravy bolt contacts (in our case, they serve as conclusions of negative polarity) with M5 thread. Therefore, for their connection between them, after installation, the M5 nuts should be screwed into them. Between the nut and board, hold the bare copper wire or even crush at least once, and then tighten the nut.

After mounting all the elements, the circuit board can be installed in the housing with a protective transparent lid, for example, from the plexiglass. Also in the housing it is necessary to do a small hole for outputting the power cord, and the switch will not be required.

Transistors can also serve as photoelectric converters. For this purpose, it is enough to remove their opaque shell. Faulty transistors can also be safely used as sources of voltage, but under one condition that they did not have a short circuit between the collector and the base or the emitter and the database. The more powerful transistor, gem the best of it will be a photocell. If the readers want to make a solar battery based on transistors, then the following types can be recommended: P201, P202, P203, P416, P422, CT620A, CT3108A, foreign TG50 (gives up to 0.5 mA at a voltage of about 1.5 V). When using a foreign transistor TG70, it is possible to obtain in the current limits of 3 mA at a voltage of 1.5 V, the same indicators also refer to domestic transistors P201 ... 203.

After selecting the transistor in metal case, for example, P416, it must be carefully cutting up the top of the Hat along line 1-2, or remove the entire body, performing the same actions as the flange with the diode. It is also desirable to check all transistors first to be used as the elements of the solar battery. We use Multimegro for this purpose by installing Milliammeter mode in the range of up to 20 mA. Then bring the probe to the outputs of the selected transistor, namely between the collector or the emitter and the base. At the same time, the plus probe, emanating from the multimeter, connect to the collector or the emitter, and the negative probe is summarized to the transistor base. For good lighting The device will show a current of about 0.15-0.3 mA. After that, you must translate our measuring instrument to the voltage measurement mode, and select the range to 2 V. and also measure, but already the voltage between the collector (or the emitter) and the base. In this case, the multimeter should show a value of about 0.3 V.

The approximate part of the solar battery circuit with the use of transistors is as follows:

Instead of the emitter, you can also use a collector who is like more. Naturally, transistors can be as much as possible, and therefore modules too.

Should be remembered about the need to comply temperature mode Solar battery, go to protect it from overheating in the sun. When the semiconductor crystal is heated for each subsequent degrees Celsius, ranging from 25, it begins to lose about 0.002 V in its voltage, that is, about 0.4% per degree. In the calf sunny day crystal and actually r-n transition It can be heated to a temperature of 40-80 ° C, with an average temperature of 0.06 ... 0.09V on each element included in the solar panel. This is one of the most important reasons for the decline in the efficiency of semiconductors homemade solar batter.

The most effective time for the operation of the solar module during the spring and summer is approximately 9 to 18 hours, in the fall and winter, of course, this period is reduced. To another bright time of the day of the solar battery decreases. There is a current generated by the solar panel, and in cloudy weather or in the shade. Some orientation of the solar battery relative to the position of the Sun helps to increase the generated current. The voltage in such a homemade solar battery will be equal to the sum of the voltages on all the components of its semiconductors. The current given to this battery will be limited to the worst semiconductor current.

Andrei student

All humanity today seeks to use environmental technologies that allow saving resources. And what could be eco and more economically, than solar energy? While the sun shines, its energy can and should be used for its own purposes. But this requires a special catcher - a solar panel or otherwise - the battery.

Despite the fact that this technology is nonsense, it still remains expensive. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to collect such devices with their own hands. The easiest way to join the free energy of the Sun is to collect the device from diodes. About how to collect this miracle of engineering thought at home, today's article will tell.

What kind of device is?

Before you begin to assemble the solar battery with your own hands, you need to find out what it is.
The solar battery is a special photoplastin, which as a result of the effect on it of sunlight can change its conductivity. This process occurs with the release of electrical energy.

Note! Transformation of sunlight into the desired type of energy today is the most promising way of development in the energy plan.

Classic type of factory solar panel

And this acquisition will not be completely superfluous in an apartment or house. And its manufacturer do with your own hands at home is some advantages. So, you can save on the purchase of a production model. And, of course, get some moral satisfaction that always comes, if you make a good thing with your own hands.
But on the other hand, in the case of self-assembly, there is always one drawback - the absence of quality and performance guarantees. Of course, if you are a master of all hands and constantly sold the houses of electrical appliances, then you will succeed at the highest discharge, but the newcomer is not as rainbowders. Therefore, decide whether it is profitable to make a sunbath with your own hands or it is easier to buy in a specialized store.
Deciding to assemble a similar device of a diode type, you need to know the principle of its work. The solar panel from diodes is based on two types of elements:

• lEDs;
• old diodes.

The diode contains a semiconductor crystal with a P-N-zone. When exposed to the element of sunlight in the P-N-zone region, the movement of electrons, which formed a directional flow begins. As a result, it turns out a photoc. Thanks to this principle of operation, it becomes possible to assemble the solar battery with your own hands from diodes.
But here it is necessary to remember that the voltage produced by a diode will be very small (for example, about 0.5 V for diodes of the type of CD). In this case, the current will not exceed 7 mA. But for the White LED, the current consumption can reach up to 20 mA. As a result, it is necessary to obtain a relatively normal battery power.

First option assembly

Light-emitting diode

As it has already become clear, today the solar panel with homemade craftsmen can be manufactured in two versions: from LEDs and old diodes.
Consider the first option when an ordinary LED will act as the main element.

Modern LEDs can be widely used for self-assembly mini-solar battery. They have the principle of operation almost similar to conventional diodes. From the last LED differs by the presence of a special case. It acts as a lens, with which the focusing of sun rays on a conductive crystal occurs.

Note! Due to the presence of this lens, the produced voltage here will be slightly higher than that of standard diode elements.

It should be remembered that the voltage produced depends on the type of luminous lision:

• for the red-transparent element, this indicator will be approximately 1.3 V;
• for green - 1.5 V;
• for infrared - 0.9 V.

Installing elements can be made on a dense cardboard or a textolite substrate. By collecting a battery of 100 LEDs, you can get current strength of about 0.5 mA.
The assembly process occurs as follows:

Ready battery

• we deliver the elements from the housing. To do this, you can use a wide variety of remedies (hammer, chisel, etc.). Remove the case should be carefully, which avoid damage to the crystal;

Note! The housing on the LED can not be removed at all.

• as a fee we will use cardboard. In it we do small holes. Holes do not as pleased, the scheme is used for this. Choosing a scheme, take into account the fact that with a sequential connection of the elements, their voltage will be summed up, and with parallel - the current force is summed up. The greatest effect will be with the combination of both connections;
• in the well-done holes insert the LEDs and connect them between themselves by the selected scheme.

Everything, the battery is ready. You will only need to check its indicators using the registering device. Do not expect to see the impressive numbers. Often, with such an assembly, the device will give a current of 0.3 mA.
In fact, in addition to the pure "sports" interest here, little can be achieved. You will spend money, time and strength, and get the minimum result. Another disadvantage of such a device will be a large area of \u200b\u200baccommodation of diode elements.

Glow panel

Since LEDs were used to create a solar battery, they will glow. Spontaneous glow of such elements is another minus idea to use LEDs to create a panel in order to convert the electrical current from solar energy.
This effect is due to the fact that part of the elements of the scheme will generate electricity. But the other part of them will consume it.
Note! Remove the effect of the luminescence at the LED solar battery is impossible.
Here, by the cons structure, you can add the fact that the panel will produce electricity only under direct sunlight. If there are at least one cloud or a cloudy day in the sky, then the voltage will be zero at the output.

Second option

Old diode

Another embodiment of the solar battery will be the use of old diodes. The principle of their work is the same as the modern elements of the electric hammers of this plan.

In this case, the manufacture of the panel is as follows:

• open the body of the diode so that sun rays can fall on its crystal;
• the top of the housing is just necessary to cut. In this case, the lower part should be heated using the gas stove turned on. It is necessary to keep an element over fire no more than 20 seconds;
• after the solder melted, you can easily remove the crystal. To do this, we use tweezers;
• pulling crystals should be soldered to the board. The scheme is shown below. It may differ depending on the desired finite parameters.

Installation scheme

In order to obtain 2-4 V, it is necessary to mount 5 blocks consisting of 4-5 sword sequentially crystals. As a result, you will receive the required voltage with the desired current strength. Parallel connection will bring a smaller current strength. Such a collected solar panel can be used to power the LED device of a small size.

Conclusion

Of the diodes, of course, it is difficult to collect a powerful panel for trapping sunlight. After all, even in its best performance (old diodes), such a device will be ineffective and a small LED device will be powered by a maximum. Therefore, if you are not an electrician-like-amateur and all kinds of electric hammers - not your passion and you do not really love to mess with them, then you should not spend the forces on the assembly of such batteries, but it is better to buy a factory model and get a good result. In such a situation, you will pay much faster than the funds spent, and with great comfort.

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